Considering the question of house repair, first of all we pay attention to condition of floor.
Old parquet or wooded floor, installed 30-40 years ago, has a sleazy appearance. If you have no possibility or willingness to restore or change the floor, just use it as a base for a new modern covering (for laminate, for instance). This decision is cheaper than complete replacement of an old floor covering and not worse than widely advertised filled floors or other trendy technologies.
To fulfill this idea you should remove the old floor anyway, strengthen and re-install it. This is to eliminate creaks, cavities and other defects.
It’s supposed, that the executor knows the essentials of carpentry and operates a hammer, a screwdriver and a drill.
So, let’s start.
1. Necessary tools and materials: – Hammer drill for concrete, D = 10mm, L = 150-200mm; – Electric drill, D= 10mm; – Average size hummer; – Frame and plastic anchors, D= 10mm, L = 120mm. (30-40 items) with corresponding self-tappers. For floor battens fastening to concrete; – Self-tappers (screws) -40 pieces. For fastening of parquet boards to battens; – Strong cross-blade screw-driver or screw driving machine; – Bending tongs or pliers, and nail drawer (short crow-bar –like) – Leveler – Charge of optimism: “You never know what you can do until you try”, 2 -3 days of free time.
2. Let’s clear the room from furniture. If you have a large wall unit or wardrobe, and parquet floor, just do not touch this construction for a while. We will remove parquet boards under the construction at the end of work or will not even touch it at all. One of the most important things in perforating works is to discuss a suitable schedule with downstairs neighbors: I guess, you understand why.
3. Here goes removal. Let’s remove old floor moulding first. Then check the level of the old floor for length and breadth of the room with a leveler. This is to decide if we need to level the battens with the leveler or to keep current level difference for matching with the neighboring rooms.
And now – removal itself. If you have parquet floor, you`d better start from a door. Lift the first board with a nail drawer carefully and find out the location of nails. Then put the board in its place with the help of a hummer, and take away the emerged nails with the tongs. Repeat this procedure until all the nails won’t be separated from the board, and then take the board out. After it, pass to the next board. Note that the nails in the other boards are paced in the front edges.
There are flat tongues in the front cavities of parquet boards, that`s why a nails-free board to be shifted towards the neigboring boards. Work carefully and try not to damage the front edges of boards. But dont worry, if you have damaged some boards. The boards will be attached to battens with screws without front tongues.
Wooden floor is removed much easier, and we will not make long comments about the process. All the removed parquet boards or wood boards to be marked. It will simplify the further installation. So, the floor can be cut open in 3-5 hours. (but surely, it depends on a room size)
4. And here goes the most interesting stage. When the floor is removed, we can easily see check rails, so called battens, and construction garbage. Check the gaps between floor slabs and walls. If the gaps are too wide, fill them with mortar. You will probably have no second chance to do it. Do not hesitate to take construction garbage away; you will do it after battens leveling.
Before you start, find wooden cut-outs, pieces of fibreboard, plywood and laminate.
Start from the nearest batten to the door. There are small slivers and pieces of pressed paper (need for sound insulation) under it. This backing material to be replaced by a new one but of a greater size (150×150 mm), the distance between the board and the batten to be kept the same. Three holders (at the ends and in the middle of a board) will be enough for a board with 3-4m battens. Make a hole in a batten through backing material to floor slab with the help of 10mm electric drill. Then insert boring tool of a perforator into the cavity (you have already got neighbors’ permission) and bore the floor slab. You should make a hole of 120mm depth (suitable for an anchor) in the floor slab through battens and backing material.
Use plastic anchors (120mm) and suitable screws, which can be nailed up with a hummer without intensive screwing. As practice proves, a screw can be firmly attached to a plastic anchor.
Proceed with fastening of the batten in the same way. Use backing material of suitable thickness and place it between the attachment points. The battens to be attached with nails, do not use a drill.
Having missed two intermediate battens, pass to the fourth one. Level it without fastening. Now pass to the seventh batten and level, proceed to other battens leveling in the same way. Having leveled each fourth batten, check the general inclination of the room. Use a long leveler (2m) or a long straight brick with an attached leveler. If needed, correct the height of battens by using backings of various thickness. Note that the result of your work depends on this very operation. Then fasten these battens in a way described earlier.
Put a brick across the fastened battens, mark the height of the intermediate battens and proceed with fastening. If you notice inaccuracy in height measurement, you can easily remove a screw with a nail drawer. After that slightly lift the batten and add or remove a backing. Then put a screw in its place. After leveling and battens fastening you can take construction garbage away.
5. Proceed with the installation of the old parquet boards or wooden boards, paying attention to the previously made marks, by fastening them to the battens with screws. Do not panic if you will notice gaps – laminate will cover them. The most important thing to be observed that all boards to be installed in the same level and be firmly attached to the battens.
Having completed this work, you will have a solid, monolithic and durable base for the future floor with any covering. Financial expenditures are not high (the cost of anchors and screws), self labor contribution is no object. A labor with a proper result is pleasure for a real man.